Kveik – a new, “old” way to produce delicious beer

At first glance home brewing appears to be a linear process that follows a basic premise with fundamentally universal procedures. Those new to the brewing game will often hear seasoned vets preach about sanitation, maintaining mash temps, hitting the proper water PH, and most certainly the importance of temperature control during the fermentation process. That is until recently. Over the past several months a type of yeast has made its way to American yeast propagators, and it is not only changing the game in professional breweries, but it’s also whipping the home brewing sector into a frenzy. One of the most difficult things to master with Kveik is the pronunciation of the word. To English speaking people the word sounds like quake, as in earthquake. In Norway the W sound doesn’t exist so when a native of Norway pronounces the word it comes across as Ka-Vake. Regardless of how you say it Kveik has brought a whole new approach to the way we as home brewers ferment our frothy golden creations.

 

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What is Kveik?

Kveik is not a particular strain of yeast in the traditional sense. The term itself is derived from a specific Norwegian dialect meaning “yeast”. Traditionally, yeast used in brewing consists of one specific strain such as California Ale or English Ale. Each of these strains imparts certain characters into the beer that are often quite easy to identify. Kveik on the other hand is formulated from the mixture of multiple strains of yeast that aren’t nearly as simple to identify. Kveik is a blend of yeasts that have been used for hundreds of years in Norway, and it is often passed down from generation to generation. Kveik is a central ingredient used in these Norwegian beers to create a number of unique and quite delicious farmhouse ales.

What makes Kveik different from single strain yeast?

While the modernized brewing processes have found their way in to Norway, Kveik is still used on a regular basis, and for the most part it remains relatively unchanged. There are two major differences that can be identified between Kveik and single strains that are more commonly found in modern brewing yeast. The first difference is the way in which the yeasts are stored. Traditional liquid yeasts come in a liquid format packaged in a plastic container that should be kept in a refrigerator to maintain its viability. While modern Kveik can be stored in packaging much like its single strain counterparts, in the olden times Kveik would be dried out on wooden rings and stored on logs or other materials that the yeast would cling to leaving it unharmed and quite viable until the next brew day. Once it was time for pitching the yeast would be dipped back into the wort which would awaken the yeast and allow it to work its magic once again.

Another major difference with Kveik is its incredibly high heat tolerance. Traditional single strains of yeast have varying fermentation temperatures, ranging from 48F (9C) to 58F (14C) for lagers, and 62F (17C) to 76F (24C) for ales. Kveik on the other hand does its best work when fermented in the range of 65F (18C) all the way up to a balmy 104F (40C). In fact, some of the best results of Kveik fermented beer have come from maintaining a temperature closer to the higher end of the range. Fermenting at these higher temps would of course lead many to believe that the yeast would produce fusel alcohol, off putting fruity esters, or plasticky solvent type flavors that are normally undesirable in the final beer product. However, this is quite the opposite when utilizing Kveik.

How is Kveik beneficial to a home brewer?

Not every homebrewer has the ability to consistently control the temperatures of their fermentation chambers. In fact, homebrewers often find themselves spending a lot of time and money in an attempt to rig a system that allows them to keep their fermenting wort in the desirable temperature range of 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit or 16 to 24 Celsius. Kveik yeast allows a much more forgiving range. Maintaining a temperature in a 45-degree span is less stressful than that of 15 degrees. Glycol chilling or other temperature-controlled systems not only costs a lot of money on the front end, but it can also require a lot of time babysitting a fermenting beer. Kveik gives a home brewer the ability to in essence, set it and forget it for the 7 to 14 days often required to produce a delicious quaffable beer.

What styles of beer can be produced from Kveik?

While Kveik can be used with a variety of styles, it really fits nicely into a farmhouse Saison, or the highly popular New England IPA’s. Some home brewers have even gone as far as using Kveik in fruitier stouts, porters, or other English ales. Over the past couple of months, I have brewed a couple of NEIPA’s using Kveik and they have turned out quite nice. In the beers I brewed I used OYL091 Hornindal from Omega, but there are several other cultures from both Omega and Imperial including OYL061 Voss, A44 Kveiking, and A43 Loki.

While Kveik may not be a yeast culture that homebrewers will use on a regular basis, I think its one that should certainly be considered for an occasional recipe. Not only will you produce a quality beer with highly desirable esters, but you will also enjoy the speed in which this yeast ferments. If there is one thing, I have learned over the past few years of brewing it’s that I love producing delicious, highly drinkable beer as fast as possible. So the next time you’re at your local home brew store and you see a pack of Kveik yeast available pick it up and toss it in your brew. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did. Cheers!

Which is more precise to use taking gravity readings: a hydrometer or refractometer? — Ep. 151

Howdy, homebrewer!

We welcome you back to another episode of the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!

On Today’s Show:

Todd and James are BOTH able to join me this week to take YOUR questions! Specifically, we talk about using hydrometers and refractometers and we also take a question about better understanding what temperatures are important when setting your brew day timers. It’s a great episode for newer brewers and we appreciate those who continue to send questions in as well as trust us to help you as a new brewer!

We want to hear from you!

If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!

Let us know what you think and enjoy the show!

cheers,

joshua

https://youtu.be/1MxvQGN6O84

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Become a Patron!  Reminder that these episodes are ultimately made possible because of YOUR support. Consider becoming a member of our newly launched Patreon page and receive perks such as merch, exclusive group access and content, recipes, and some tiers even get monthly recipe kits mailed to you!

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October’s Patreon Giveaway: https://www.kegconnection.com/soda-carbonating-kits-with-no-co2-bottle/

October’s Patreon Featured Recipe: https://www.kegconnection.com/koln-kolsch-true-to-style-all-grain-recipe-kit/

https://www.patreon.com/HomebrewHappyHour

Homebrewer Showcase: Tyler Sadler from the SoCal Cerveceros — Ep. 150

Welcome back, home brewer!

It’s time for another episode of the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!

On Today’s Show:

It’s been a couple of weeks since we released an episode! If you haven’t kept up on our social media (Facebook or Instagram, specifically), a lot has gone on the last several weeks. Between Todd’s neck surgery, my vasectomy (insert sad violin music here), and then my daughter Esther had a week long stay at the hospital for a brain tumor, no kidding! Long story short – everyone is doing fine now. They successfully removed a ganglioglioma tumor from my daughter’s brain, it was benign, and has a less than 10% chance of ever coming back. I want to thank you all for reaching out to me during the whole ordeal and for your thoughts and prayers. Truly, it meant the world to me and our community is the best community ever!

SO – with all that being said, episode 150 features Tyler Sadler; a fantastic homebrewer out of southern California who is brewing up some awesome beers and is very active in her local homebrewer club, the Socal Cerveceros! It was so much fun getting to know her and learn more about her background and future plans in brewing. You definitely need to be following her on Instagram at @TylersBrew

We want to hear from you!

If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!

Let us know what you think and enjoy the show!

cheers,

joshua

01:11 – Introducing Tyler Sadler
02:08 – Catching you up on why we went two weeks without an episode
04:30 – Tyler recaps her California Craft Beer summit experience
07:08 – Background about SoCal Cerveceros
15:16 – Tyler’s background as a homebrewer
25:11 – Tyler going over the equipment she’s used and currently using
32:17 – Thinking of the season when preparing for a brew day
33:27 – Tyler’s future goals as a brewer
36:08 – Where you can follow Tyler online

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Become a Patron!  Reminder that these episodes are ultimately made possible because of YOUR support. Consider becoming a member of our newly launched Patreon page and receive perks such as merch, exclusive group access and content, recipes, and some tiers even get monthly recipe kits mailed to you!

Creating Great Beer Recipes

Beginning beer brewers are often stymied when faced with the task of creating their own recipes from scratch.   Many may start with recipe kits from their homebrew store (a good bet for beginners), or from a recipe they found from a book or the internet so creating a brand new recipe may seem a bit formidable.

Just like with baking, where set amounts of flour, sugar, salt and cocoa come together to form the beginning of a chocolate cake, malted grain, hops, yeast and water come together to form the basics of a beer.   It’s the combination of those ingredients and the amounts needed that form the final product and that is the key to creating the beer you wish to make. 

Getting Started

The very first step is to consider the style or type of beer you are going to brew.   Do you want something light and crisp for summer, something heavy and roasty for sipping by the fire, or something unlike either of those?   If you don’t have a specific recognized style in mind, think of some adjectives to describe the beer you picture drinking, and even consider writing them down.   Descriptive words like malty, hoppy, roasty, fruity, clean, British style, toasty, warm, tart, etc., will all give you a base to start with.   Decide if you want a lighter style like a ‘lawnmower beer’ or something bigger and bolder, and combine it with those key words you selected.  For example, if you’re thinking “clean”, “crisp” and “light” you may be considering something like a cream ale or a light American lager.   Once you have that style or type in your mind, with the qualities you wish for it to have, you are well on your way. 

This is also a good time to consider the amount of alcohol you’d like the beer to have, within a rough percentage so you can begin to choose the amount of ingredients you will be using. 

With that done, it is now time to think about the ingredients you will use in your recipe, and begin selecting them.

Malt

Malted grains form the base of any beer.   Whether brewing from all grains or from malt extract, this is the largest component of the beer.   When choosing the grains, think of the qualities again of the beer you are making and that will help you decide what to begin with.   Generally, a base malt from the country or area where the style originated is a good bet.   Base malt is the grain that makes up the majority of your grain bill.   For example, if you’ve decided you would like a British brown ale, choosing a British malt like maris otter or a malt extract made from English malts would be a good base.   The base malt should make up 85-100% of your beer in most cases and is the first building block. 

Specialty grains are the (usually) malted grains that give color, flavor, aroma, and even body to your beer.   They range from crystal malts that can impart different degrees of sweetness all the way to black malt that can give a roasty or even a burnt acrid flavor to your brew.  Think of the characteristics again you’ve decided upon.   Do you picture a toasty flavor with some sweetness?   Or a bit of roast?  Or perhaps a bit of both?   Now is the time to choose the grains that will give you those flavors.  

A word of caution here- “less is more” usually applies.   Until you are well experienced with the proportions and amounts of specialty ingredients in the beers you like and are making, using less specialty grains to start with is advised.   Many beers may utilize crystal malts in varying amounts from 1-15% in beers where crystal malt is appropriate,  but unless you are certain that you are hopping enough to balance a very high percentage of crystal malts, you may want to stay in the middle of that range.

A good place to start is to plan on your grainbill being at least 80-90% base malt, using the specialty grains for color and flavor in the remainder.    

Using our example of a British brown ale, where you may want a malt-forward easy drinking ale with an alcohol level of about 5% and some caramel notes with a hint of nutty character, choose maris otter as the base malt (or an English pale ale extract), in the amount of 85-88% or so.   Add your specialty grains in smaller amounts.   Generally, about 5-7% medium crystal malt would be a good choice for this style.   Adding about 2% British chocolate malt for color and dryness would be welcome here, and even some victory malt or biscuit malt for that “toasty” flavor would be nice (up to 5% or so).   

Reading through some of the common base malts and specialty grains will help you decide on which to use in your recipe.   Most homebrew stores have a list of the grains and extracts they sell, along with a good description.  The reason to choose maris otter in the British brown ale came from this description from Homebrewsupply.com:  Developed in Cambridge by Dr.Bell, Pale Maris Otter is 2 row winter barley perfect for British Ales. Developed in order to preserve the traditional flavors found in British Ales of all sorts Pale Maris Otter offer a rich, slightly nutty flavor with an orange tinted wort.

If choosing malts seems to be overwhelming, you may want to consider a SMaSH (Single Malt and Single Hop) beer.   Using one base malt in the amount of 10 pounds per 5 gallon (US) batch would give you about a 5% beer.  Choosing one or two specialty grains at a time, in smaller amounts, and adding that to your recipe will give you a distinct image of what each ingredient brings to your beer. 

Hops

Hops are grown around the world now, giving brewers a larger selection than ever before and new varieties are being introduced frequently.   Choosing them can be tricky if you’re not experienced with the different types and variety available.   Hops are primarily used to provide bitterness to the beer, as a counter to the sweet malt but hops also provide flavor and aroma as well. 

When making your first few recipes, you may decide to go with a safe choice, using a variety from a country/area where you are sourcing your malt.   Again, in the example of the British brown, you can find some classic “English” varieties, like East Kent Goldings that would be terrific in this beer.  

Alternatively, if you’re making an American IPA using US base malt, you may pick some wonderful and unexpected choices like the newer varieties from Australia or some of the newer “cryo” hops.   The key is to find hop that won’t clash with your goals, and will enhance the entire beer.  Reading the description of the hops from the producers’ websites will give you a good idea of what the hops will bring to your beer.  Words like “woody”, “dank”, “tropical”, “floral”, “fruity”, “spicy” and “minty” may seem strange for beer ingredients at first, but the descriptions will help you imagine the balance of those flavors in your beer. 

Yeast

Yeast is the undersung hero of the brewing world.   The brewer makes the wort,  but it’s the yeast that makes the beer.   Choosing yeast is the final step in creating your recipe.   There are many manufacturers of quality brewing yeast nowadays, and you can find a great selection in your homebrew shop.   The best source of information on the yeast is on the manufacturer’s website   They have descriptions of their products, along with recommended styles for their use as well as the fermentation temperature ranges and attenuation percentages.   

When choosing a strain, once again consider the beer you are making.  Choosing a strain designed for certain beer styles will be a good bet.  As in our example above, English brown ale, picking a quality yeast meant for English ales would give a good result.   Most manufacturers have a selection of English ale yeast strains to help you decide. 

Water

Water is the final ingredient to consider.   Since beer is 90% water, chlorine-free non-softened water is crucial for making the best beer.   Getting a water report for your water is the best way to begin to delve into brewing water treatment.   Many brewers have great brewing water naturally, while many others do not.   Once you have a water report, or make a choice to purchase reverse osmosis or distilled water, you are ready to consider adding water treatments to your repertoire.   We have a beginning’s guide to using reverse osmosis water here:  https://www.homebrewsupply.com/learn/intro-reverse-osmosis-brewing-better-beer.html   If you tap water has been working for you (and you take steps to remove the chlorine), that could be a fine choice as well. 

Putting it All Together

Once you’ve chosen your ingredients, it’s time to create your recipe.   While many use paper and pencil, the vast majority of brewers find that using some brewing software makes the process far less painful and even more fun.   The software does the calculations for you, including the percentages of the grains, the likely original gravity and final gravity of the beer, the ABV (alcohol by volume) and the IBUs (International bittering units) of the beer.   An added bonus is that the ingredients often have descriptions, country of origin, and even recommended amounts to use.  

In our English brown ale example above, we decided on our grain and hops. 

Putting that into a software package, in this case Brewer’s Friend, we see:

And now for the hops. In our software, it helpfully gives us tips as to how many IBUs (and the color of the beer) we need for our English brown ale, and we have green check marks showing we are in range:

Now, we choose the yeast and we are all set!

Our recipe is finished (except for the water calculator part), and we’ve hit all of our goals for an English brown ale:

(Entire recipe at https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator)

The recipe building process is the same for extract/steeping grain brewers as well, simply substituting the chosen extract for the base malt.  

The rest of the recipe is the same, and can be found here in its entirety: https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/839942/english-brown-ale-extract

Most software packages are similar in the calculations part, so choose one that meets your needs and feels right to you.   There are many free or very low cost ones out there, many of them cloud based.  

Entire books have been written on the creation of beer recipes, and if you’d like more information, Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels and Brewing Classic Styles by Jamil Zainasheff & John Palmer are the most notable ones geared for homebrewers.   There are also websites and forums online dedicated to helping others learn more about brewing and they can also be a valuable source of information.  

Style Showcase: MÄRZEN

MÄRZEN (OKTOBERFEST)

Märzenbier [March beer] is a copper-colored German beer and per its name, typically brewed in March.  Märzenbier originated in the 16th century when Bavarian brewers wanted to use their extra hops and malts before brewing stopped for the summer. They would brew from September 29 (St. Michael’s Day) to April 23 (St. George’s Day) due to a Bavarian decree issued in 1553 from Duke Albrecht V, and only applied to Bavaria. These cold fermented beers helped drive off potential bacterial infection that was prevalent at the time in Ales. Uniquely, the caves around Munich provided the perfect environment to lager beer throughout the summer.  Since they would have to store the beer for long periods of time, a higher gravity and higher volume of hops were used, which act as natural preservatives. Though they would drink Märzenbier throughout the summer months, by the middle of fall, fresh grains and casks would be in high demand for storage. This meant that the older, lagered beer would need to be consumed in a hurry to make room for new tasty beers!

In royal fashion, the wedding of Prince Ludwig of Bavaria and Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen on October 12, 1810 would set the foundation of Oktoberfest as we know it. Prince Ludwig invited all of Munich to a meadow outside of the city to celebrate his wedding, which lasted for 5 days! The party was such a success, Prince Ludwig mandated that the celebration occur every year on their wedding anniversary. The official Oktoberfest takes place in that same meadow to this day.

Partially due to time of the year, the first beer to be served at the celebration was Märzenbier, but not as we know it today. Back then, it was more along the lines of a Dunkel, being darker, maltier and having a higher alcohol content. The change ocurred when they ran low on beer in 1872 and Spaten Brewery supplied a lighter amber colored lager called Ur-Märzen which was an adaptation of the Vienna Lager. This was quickly adopted around the city as what would become modern Märzenbier and be the official beer of Oktoberfest. This tradition lasted until 1990 when the lighter golden Festbier took over being the standard festival beer.

A ‘Märzen’ is a medium body beer that has a clean lager profile, rich, toasty, and bready malt flavor with restrained bitterness, and a dry finish. The first impression should suggest sweetness but finish dry to medium-dry. The alcohol in this beer should never be overpowering but can be lightly detected in the aroma. The overall malt impression should be soft, elegant and complex, with a rich aftertaste that is never heavy. It should have a creamy texture, which would often suggest fuller mouthfeel.  There should be low to no hop aroma,  no caramel, dry-biscuity, or roasted malt aromas present in this style.  

Vital Statistics: OG: 1.054 – 1.060 IBUs: 18 – 24 FG: 1.010 – 1.014 SRM: 8 – 17 ABV: 5.8 – 6.3%

My method is pretty straight forward and I have had great success so far with this style. While I have never done a decoction for this style, the BJCP says that it traditionally used to help develop the rich malt profile. But you can still get great results without doing this. When brewing, I aim for a fermenter volume of 5.2 gallons, and I’ll transfer into a keg with a cut dip tube w/ airlock for secondary place in my kegerator to lager. I work with a blank slate by getting some distilled water from my local grocery store. This is definitely something you don’t have to do but water will make a difference in this beer.   Water profile what I went with for this beer was my Märzen profile Calcium: 12ppm Magnesium: 17ppm Sodium: 4ppm Sulfate: 18ppm Chloride: 8ppm Bicarbonate: 0 ppm.  The way that it works out is:

Mash water 4.83 gallons is .98g Epsom salt, .39g Calcium Chloride, .09 chalk

Sparge water 3.39 gallons is .69g Epsom Salt, .27g Calcium Chloride, .06g chalk.

Recipe:

4lbs. Dingemans Munich

4lbs. German Pilsner

1lb. 12oz Bestmaltz Munich Dark

1lb. Bestmaltz Caramel Munich

8oz Avangard Vienna Malt

Mash temp 151 degrees for 80 mins Mash Out 168 degrees for 10 mins

Boil for 90 mins

1oz Hallertau 60 mins

.75oz Hallertau 15 mins

1tsp Irish Moss 10 mins

2pks of White Labs WLP#820 octoberfest/märzen lager or 1pkg and make a starter.  I like to add 1200ml water and ¾ light pilsner DME, then boil 15 mins.  Cool to 70 degrees then pitch yeast and stir for a day.

Fermentation schedule 52 degrees for week and half and check 5 points from the end of fermentation raise the temperature to room temp for diacetyl rest for 2 days then lower the temp 5 degrees a day till you reach 36 degrees then you will hold steady and lager for 6 weeks.

Commercial Examples: Buergerliches Ur-Saalfelder, Hacker-Pschorr Original Oktoberfest, Paulaner Oktoberfest, Weltenburg Kloster Anno 1050

https://gotbeer.com/hop-chatter/a-brief-history-of-marzen-and-oktoberfest

Learn: Marzen | Oktoberfest article

Style Profile Oktoberfest article

“What the Hell is a Marzen?” article

https://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2015/04/how-the-beer-garden-came-to-be/391343/

https://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf

When to use nitro and a question on utilizing two wort chillers — Ep. 149

Hi there, our home brewing friend!

thank you for tuning in to our home brewing podcast

we welcome you to the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!

On Today’s Show:

The gang is all back together again! Todd is here, James is here, I am, well, obviously here. If I had enough money to license “Reunited” by Peaches & Herb I would, but just hum it in your head when you first hear us all on together in this episode. 🙂

Become a Patron!

We are not only back as a threesome, we also take YOUR questions on homebrewing. Specifically, we discuss when to use nitro and why you’d want to PLUS we discuss our favorite way to chill our wort when brewing in Texas: using TWO wort chillers. It isn’t as difficult nor as expensive as you might be thinking it is. Also — here are the keg labels we had made that I talked about on today’s show, since I forgot to inject them into the video. My bad!

This episode was a ton of fun to produce so I hope you enjoy episode 149 of our show!

We want to hear from you!

If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!

Let us know what you think and enjoy the show!

cheers,

joshua

01:12 – Todd and James are back

03:25 – Todd updates us on his neck

04:15 – Our new keg labels are in!

07:38 – More info on our Patreon launch

09:08 – Patreon bumper I made like a PBS intro

14:14 – First question, “How to use NItro to dispense”

24:44 – Second question, “Using two wort chillers?”


Today’s show is brought to you by HomebrewSupply.com! HBS’ has all of your favorite recipe kits, fresh ingredients, and homebrew equipment in stock. Homebrew Happy Hour listeners can visit HomebrewSupply.com and use the promo code “HHH” to receive 5% off your order.

(Discount can not be applied to products that are drop shipped including, but not limited to, products by Spike Brewing, SS BrewTech, Brewer’s Edge Mash & Boil, and more. See website for details)

Product Showcase: Inkbird ITC-308 Temperature Controller

Ladik Joe Ermis from Homebrew Supply joins us once again to go over the extremely popular temperature controller from Inkbird – their ITC-308. It’s market proven, utilized by thousands of home brewers who need to control their fermentation temps, cold conditioning/lagering temps, and more!

BUY NOW: https://www.homebrewsupply.com/inkbir…

Info from the manufacture: Plug and play design, easy to use Dual relay output, be able to connect with refrigeration and heating equipment at the same time Support reading with Centigrade or Fahrenheit unit Maximum output load: 1200W(110V) Dual display window, be able to display measured temperature and set temperature at the same time Temperature calibration Compressor delay protection for refrigeration control High and low temperature alarms are available Over-temperature and sensor fault alarm Heating/cooling differential function could be set separately for refrigeration and heating to protect temperature controller from violent change

Which part of the brewing process is flavor most affected by? — Ep. 148

Happy Weekend, Homebrewer

and thank you for tuning in to our home brewing podcast

and we welcome you to the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!

On Today’s Show:

Todd’s surgery was a success! He is already home and recovering well, which means that he could not join us today as we’d rather not have a drugged up Todd Burns on the show. Can you imagine his dancing at the beginning of the show being worse than it already is? The thought terrifies me.

With that being said, Handsome James Carlson joins me to take your home brewing related questions on today’s episode. Specifically, we talk about which part of the #brewday process is FLAVOR most affected and we also talk about hot breaks and head retention. It’s actually way more exciting than it probably sounds!

We also announced the winners from our August label contest AND we present our newly launched Patreon page which, as Todd so delicately put it to me over the phone, is a way to show you guys how broke we are and need your money. 🙂

We want to hear from you!

If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!

Let us know what you think and enjoy the show!

cheers,

joshua

1:30 James brewing on a 10bbl system this weekend

5:52 Update on Todd, his surgery went well!

8:00 Info on the launch of our Patreon page! (https://www.patreon.com/HomebrewHappy…)

11:25 Label contest winners announced

17:15 First question, “When is flavor most affected during the brewing process”

29:50 Second question, “does removing hot break affect head retention?”

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Today’s show is brought to you by HomebrewSupply.com! HBS’ has all of your favorite recipe kits, fresh ingredients, and homebrew equipment in stock. Homebrew Happy Hour listeners can visit HomebrewSupply.com and use the promo code “HHH” to receive 5% off your order.

(Discount can not be applied to products that are drop shipped including, but not limited to, products by Spike Brewing, SS BrewTech, Brewer’s Edge Mash & Boil, and more. See website for details)

StickerYou Label Contest Winners!

For the month of August, we partnered with our friends at StickerYou and held a label contest which received TONS of entries, most of which were way better than anything I could ever design and now I have to justify a part of my job to Todd. So… thanks for that, guys.

ANYWAY – We’re happy to announce the winners of the contest! Before I get to that, quick funny story: I sent all of the labels to Todd and James once the contest ended and asked them to rank their favorite 3 while I did the same. When we convened, none of us picked the same 3. In fact, none of us picked the same at all and each had 3 totally different favorites from the other. Since this is a group effort, the most fair thing for me to do was to use my 3 choices since I edit everything… Kidding! What I really did was take each person’s favorite label and threw it into a hat. We then drew from there and below is the results!

THANK YOU SO MUCH for entering our contest and for being a part of our home brewing community. Your labels were incredible and the beers that these labels were made for are probably amazing as well.

3rd Prize, $125 worth of custom printed labels from StickerYou

submitted by Philip S

2nd Prize, $175 worth of custom printed labels from StickerYou

submitted by Rob P

GRAND PRIZE WINNER, $200 worth of custom printed labels from StickerYou

submitted by Tyler D

Homebrewing Kegs Explained: An Overview

We prefer to keg (versus bottling) for a multitude of reasons but we understand how intimidating or overwhelming it can be trying to decide which type of keg is best for using because there are a ton of choices when it comes to which type of home brewing keg you can buy.

Thankfully, James Carlson from CMBecker International is here to go over the basics of the most commonly used types of kegs for homebrewers who brew in 5 gallon batches or less.

James covers the connection types, keg specifications (size, diameter, and height), and other pros & cons of ball lock kegs, pin lock kegs, and converted ball lock kegs.

If you have any questions, please let us know in the comments below or you can use the “Submit a Question” link at the top of the page!

Kegs featured in this video —

Standard 5 Gallon Ball Lock Keg: https://www.kegconnection.com/cornelius-keg-or-firestone-5-gallon-ball-lock-pepsi-style-for-homebrew-soda/

Standard 5 Gallon Pin Lock Keg: https://www.kegconnection.com/pin-lock-coke-style-cornelius-keg-or-firestone-5-gallon-for-homebrew-soda/

Converted 5 Gallon Ball Lock Keg: https://www.kegconnection.com/converted-ball-lock-keg-cornelius-keg-5-gallon-w-new-posts-new-lid-for-homebrew-soda/